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Home Page --> Tutorial Lesson 12, T Seals
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Tutorial Lesson 12, T Seals | |
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Lesson 11 (Butt Seals) |
Lesson 13 (Bending Glass) |
Tip: Re-blowing the bubble in steps 5 and 6 helps build up the wall thickness at the point where the second tube is sealed. It is important not to skip this step! |
If you have performed steps 3 -8 correctly you should have a very close match of the ID and OD of the hole in tube #1 to the end of tube #2. Use a second 10 mm piece of tubing as the leg that will be attached to tube #1. We will attach this in the same fashion as the stationary buttseal that we performed in the previous lesson:
Looks Like | Cause and Correction |
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Seal is blown out too far. Use asmaller flame concentrated exactly on the seal area. Avoid flame splash on the tubing away from seal. | |
Seal is constricted - not blown out enough. Use a sharp flame to heat the restricted area and blow it out to a consistent tube ID. | |
Seal is lumpy and/or uneven. The seal was not heated hot enough to flow the glass. Reheat the seal with a sharp intense flame. | |
(a) Seal has uneven wall thickness. The tube was heated excessively causing glass to flow with gravity. (b) Reorient tube. (c) Reheat seal, gravity flow to correct. |
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Leg is tilted - too much heat was applied over a large area. Use a sharper flame and heat small sections at a time. Of course, if your intent was to create an angle seal of about 45 degrees - well done! | |
Hole! Did not seal completely or blew too hard creating hole. (a) Small hole - Heat the end of a 2 mm rod red hot and quickly stick and pull rod end into hole, sealing it shut. Work out seal. (b) If the hole is large, you may have to add glass by "weaving" the hole shut, again use 2 mm rod. Try to avoid using an excessive amount of glass with this method. (c) Use a tungsten pick to "sew" the hole shut. Heat only the glass, not the pick. Avoid creating thin spots using this method. |
Tutorial Lesson 12, T Seals | |
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Lesson 11 (Butt Seals) |
Lesson 13 (Bending Glass) |
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